Pattern Alteration For A Generous Derriere

patternalterationWhether your butt is bigger than average naturally without trying, or because you log a lot of time at the gym doing squats, making up a pants pattern than tugs at your behind and gives you a Melvin is no fun!

I always make a muslin nowadays, but since I’ve already sewn up these shorts I’m working on , Mccalls 6756, I KNOW I need to do some pattern work before I cut to adjust the back to fit my butt. When I made them the first time, they pulled up in the behind. I managed to fix it by taking out the crotch seams out to practically nothing, but they still tugged a little.

Today I’m sharing a better method to fix the problem.meshorts4

My first pair of shorts

Hopefully this pattern fix I learned from my Dressmaking For Real Women book will do the trick. You see when your behind is fuller, you also have to add width to the back area as well as length to the crotch seam. Here is how.

If you know you have this issue, it’s a good idea to sew up a really quick muslin. Then you can do the same adjustments on future patterns.butt1When you sew up your muslin you should get an idea how much you need to take out. Use 1 inch side seams when making a muslin so you can take the seams out if you need to. If you take the seam out an inch, then you know you need to lengthen the crotch seam an inch. Simple adding to the seam by drawing outside the pattern isn’t the right way to do it because that way will make the waist bigger. So slash and open, and patch the pattern . I opened my pattern up 1/2 inch in the butt area and lengthened the crotch seam by 1/2 inch. I hope that will be enough! If I want to get all precise about it , I’ll sew up another muslin, but I’m too lazy to deal with that.

frontIf the muslin togs up at the front, a common occurrence with a bigger butt, you can lengthen the front crotch seam too. Slash pattern at the crotch seam and taper it to nothing at the hem.

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  1. says

    I am reluctantly coming around to pattern adjustments. I love sewing and love what I make, but since I am doing it more, I am coming into some fitting issues. This is a great help, and I since I am starting to look into this topic, I need all the help I can get. Thanks for sharing!

    Erika @

  2. Vickie says

    If you use this adjustment on pants, how far down the leg do you slit for the “Front Adjustment”?
    I need the extra room in the caboose however, I don’t need all the extra in the thigh and hate looking like droopy drawers!