Today I’m using fabric from my fabric sponsor The Confident Stitch, an online shop with a brick and mortar location in lovely Missoula, Montana. So far, I’ve been very impressed with the quality and selection! I also like that they can send little fabric swatches because I often have a hard time figuring out how to buy the perfect fabric online. I’m trying to plan out my outfits instead of being such an impulsive seamstress. Mayne I can make things that actually go together.
Today’s fabric is an olive mossy green stretch denim . It’s not too heavy with a twill like feel and good stretch recovery, but without looking too stretchy. I received enough to not only make this skirt, but to hopefully also make a pair of flared cropped pants, another style I’d like to make for spring.When I chose the fabric in February, I was planning on making a pair of stretch cargo skinnies. So I ordered extra because I was going to sew a ton of cargo pockets. But we are deep into spring now, and I rarely wear jeans past April, so I decided to get my Grainline Moss pattern out to try since my first time ended before I could really get started. (More on that below) I bought the Moss back in December on impulse while I was up in Berkeley, but you can also find the Moss pattern at The Confident Stitch. They carry the Grainline paper patterns as well many other Indie brands making for one stop shopping.
This is technically my second go at the Moss skirt. My first version was all cut out and ready to go about a month ago. It was late at night when I finished cutting and I admit left a bit of a mess in my sewing room and went to bed. I didn’t get around to going down the next day, but it seems my husband felt a bit of tidying up was in order since we were having company. While my room looked very nice, I was kind of blown away that he would actually go in there and tidy up. I mean, he’s kind of a clean freak, but hey… going in my sewing garage? That’s taking things too far! He did a bit of sweeping up and it seems he threw away the fly piece and the side pocket pieces to this pattern. I went out to dig through the trash, yuck…. but it was Monday and the garbage man had already come. Grrrr!! Well, I knew I needed to draft up those missing pieces if I wanted to make this skirt, so I put the project on hold until now.
The top in this post is an old favorite I made years ago. The silk is from Anna Sui.
The Moss pattern is very basic, a simple straight, but not pencil shaped, mini skirt. I have to admit I was disappointed that there were no belt loops or back pocket options. I often like to wear a belt with this type of skirt and find that the waistbands will often stretch out during a long day of wearing and the skirt will start to slip down my hips if I’m not wearing one. This skirt pattern would also make a super cute denim mini skirt and a denim mini just doesn’t feel complete without back pockets.
I cut my skirt in size 4, but had to take in the back yoke and side seams about three inches, altogether. Since the fabric has stretch, it may have stretched out. My waistband was an inch too small even though I had taken in the seams of the skirt over two inches. I could not figure out why that happened but it may have had to do with the pockets I had to draft since Richard threw away my pocket pieces. Maybe they were too straight up and down?
I ended up moving the pockets over closer to the center seam to make it an inch smaller. But now I have some strange looking tugging at the waistband. Oh well, it’s not perfect, but I still like this skirt. I wanted the skirt to sit at my waist, not below it, since I’m not liking like lower waists so much anymore, so perhaps I was just working against the design of this skirt, which sits lower on the waist. It fits better than my ready to wear denim skirt, so that’s something to be happy about.
I also added two inches to the length. For reference, I’m 5’6′. It still feels a bit short and youngish for me, so I hemmed it with bias tape to save what length I could.
There was no mention in the instructions of top stitching the seams yet the illustration clearly show most of the seams have been top stitched. That might be confusing for a beginner, so just remember to top stitch after sewing each seam. I top stitched all of my seams since the fabric seemed to want that.
I’ve made a lot of zipper flies, but Jen’s method was a new one to me. I’ll admit to having some head scratching moments trying to figure it out . Her tutorial helped. Once I figured it out, I realized it’s a good method, just different than I’m used to. Sometimes we get so used to a tried and true method it’s hard to try a new one. Hopefully my next version will go quicker.
I folded the waistband facing under 1/2 an inch and pressed it before I sewed it to the outer waistband. Then I stitched it in the ditch instead of hand sewing. Again, it’s not that her method is wrong, I’m just used to doing it this other way and it works for me.
So what is the verdict? I like this skirt! It’s very simple, but the design of it is nice and I can see making it in lots of different fabrics and jazzing it up with back pockets or even front patch pockets and belt loops. However, I do wish there were more options included with this pattern like belt loops and a back pocket.