McCall’s 6927 -2.00
Fabric -gifted from a friend
Back button 1.00
After last week’s failed version of McCall’s 6927, I knew I wanted to make another with all the fitting changes it needed. I now have a comfortable semi fitted woven pattern with comfortable sleeves!
I made a lot of changes to this pattern to make it workable. So while I love it now, I wouldn’t recommend anyone use this pattern with the sleeved version. Although the sleeveless version is fine. I’ve made this cropped sleeveless one , which worked.
I’ll share my pattern changes at the end of the post. There are a lot!It was one of those gorgeous Southern California winter days today. We’ve been getting lots of rain lately, which we need, but it’s made it hard to get photos.I added little side vents to the pattern and made it two inches lower in back. The fabric was dyed with an Indigo kit from Dharma Trading back when I made my Shibori jumpsuit. The button loop needs to be smaller in back. This top is basic, but I know I’ll wear it a lot. It’s going to match with a lot of my spring and summer items. I need more basics. Here I’m wearing my robe coat I made from New Look 6416 over a year ago. It’s still one of my favorites.I lowered the darts 1.5 inches and the whole top fits so much better now. Such a simple adjustment, but it makes a huge difference.I lowered the sleeve cap about 2.5 inches! There was way too much ease. There’s still about an inch left. What a mess these sleeves were.I also raised the back armhole almost two inches. The FBA made the front armhole very small but the back armhole was huge in comparison. Raising the back armhole increased the comfort once the sleeve was installed. On my first muslin I had a very weird pulling due to that I think. Although I’m not sure.
Fitting is tricky, and this is the year I’m really going to try to figure out all my issues. I recently bought Fit For Real People and can’t recommend it enough. I had a couple other fitting books that were pretty worthless to me as I just ‘didn’t get them’ so I gave them to the thrift shop. Fit For Real People is easy to understand, and I ‘ve been reading it nightly. So much great info there! I could have really used it on some of my commissioned projects for the theater.Here are all the changes I made to my pattern which I cut in a size 12 with a D cup
- Moved bust dart down 1.5 inches.
- Had to retrue the side seams after changing back armhole. I folded out two inches on back piece since the raised armhole made the back side seam longer than the front.
- Lowered sleeve cap 2.5 inches
- Raised back armhole 2 inches.
- Made a side slit and made front two inches higher than back
- Made a 1/2 inch narrow shoulder adjustment.
I will be transferring this pattern to manila pattern paper to keep for future versions. The tissue version is completely trashed after all my adjustments! I’m glad I didn’t give up on it after last week.