Today I am sharing a bit of the process it took to make my Chanel inspired Little Black jacket.
I used the pattern block I made for Gigi to make the jacket pattern. I added some width on the side to make it roomy enough to fit a blouse under and a button placket on the left side. There are no collars on Chanel jackets so that part was easy. I used the basic sleeve pattern I drafted too.
Chanel jackets are made from soft and loosely woven boucle fabric. To give the jacket body without adding cheap iron on interfacings or stiff innerlinings like horsehair canvas, Chanel jackets have a lining quilted to the body fabric like above. You have to leave enough space at the bottom and the side seams because the lining is folded under and hand stitched into the jacket using a fell stitch.
Can you see here how the lining is just folded under and stitched in place? It seems so simple but this is a method often used in couture sewing. The entire lining is hand stitched.
I really messed up on my buttonholes!
Patch pockets are lined, then attached by hand with a fell stitch. Then the fringe trim is sewed on.
This is an example of a perfect fell stitch, used often in couture sewing. My stitch is a lot messier than this!
Once the jacket is complete minus buttonholes, the trim is then added. I made this fringe trim and sewed a stay stitch with about 1/2 inch allowance on both edges. Then I unravelled the threads to get the fringe look. It only unravels as far as the stay stitch line.
There are lots of other details used on Chanel jackets, like chains sewn inside to give weight to the coat, hand sewn buttonholes and two piece vented sleeves, but that would all be wasted on my three year old who went in this suit and tried to climb a tree with her brother after the photoshoot was over!
Well, I am tired of this type of sewing…. It is so detail oriented. Although I appreciate this type of work, it’s not something I like to do too often except for special occasions.
I am excited for this week’s white sheet challenge where I can get my hands dirty and just see what happens!