Fitting Problems On Lily’s Basic

So yesterday I draped a basic block on my form, since it’s measurements and Lily’s are similar. But when I tried the muslin on Lily, there were a lot of problems, some of which I’m not sure how to solve. Like how big the back is. I was talking with some sewing friends on Facebook about how one pattern can fit a variety of women with the similar measurements completely different. It is SO true. fit2

I just may have to watch the video I bought from Craftsy from Suzy Ferrer and draft a new pattern block based on Lily’s measurements. Or I may just drape a new one directly onto her, assuming she has the patience to stand still for a half hour. The shoulders are too wide and long, and it looks like I’ll have to do a small bust adjustment. The bodice is too long, so I made a tuck, and the side seams are too wide at the bust, but they fit at the waist. Because this is a basic block it, should be really fitted, and clearly, this isn’t. fit1Do you see how much extra fabric there is in the shoulder blade area? I’m not sure how to fix that. It almost seems like I could do a technique similar to a  small bust adjustment, except make it for the shoulder blade area? You can see how big the shoulders are on her, too. Looks like she inherited that from me. I also messed up on the neckline. A McCall’s shirt dress pattern in my stash is looking very tempting to me right about…now. But I promised myself I would draft more of my own patterns. So I’ll soldier on with this project.fit3Here is the main problem. How do I get all that width out of the back? fit4The red lines are the adjustments I made on the front. I shortened the pattern 3/4 inch by cutting through the pattern at the red line through the dart and overlapped 3/8 inch and taped it. I’ll be trying the second muslin on her when she gets home from school. But I’m still not sure about that back piece.

Readers, I’m all ears if you have any ideas on how to make it work! Thank you in advance.



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  1. says

    I think it would be easier and less likely to distort important areas like the neckline, to start with a size that fits her in the shoulders/ upper chest and then grade out from the bust downward. It looks like it’s too big in the front neck area too. Good luck!