Fitted button down shirt with military details. McCall’s 6035



Hi everyone! So here is my finished fitted button front shirt. I’m entering into the Pattern Review Sewing Bee contest. Below is my review, more photos, and details of my shirt.

McCall's 6035Sewing Bee Round 1 – Fitted Blouse
McCall's 6035
Pattern or style used and how it fits the criteria:
I used McCall’s 6035 for my fitted blouse project. It has armhole princess seam-lines in front and in back to allow for a close fit. This pattern also comes in a D cup so I didn’t have to make a full bust adjustment. Yay!
The fit was actually really good with only minimal adjustments needed.
For the pockets and tab shoulders, I used pieces from another pattern I love, McCall’s 6436.
Fabric Used-Material Content and Yardage:
I used an Asian tropical type print fabric that I’ve had for about six years. The last time I used it was to make my now 6 year old youngest child an ensemble for her first birthday! The fabric is from the Quicksilver Roxy company. I bought it at a jobber in downtown LA.McCall's 6035
Describe your closure:
There are a total of fifteen buttons on this shirt. ( 9 in the center front, 4 for the pockets, two for the shoulder tabs, and 2 for the sleeve tabs.
Describe the other components you used (e.g. buttons, collar, sleeve type, trim, pockets, contrast, etc):
I was inspired to make a military style shirt when I saw the tab closures for the arms on view C of M6036. I used the shoulder tabs and pocket pattern pieces from another pattern I’ve made up before, McCall’s 6436, as mentioned above. McCall's 6035
Describe the fitting technique(s) you used to achieve shaping:
I cut the pattern in a size 10 instead of the recommended size 12 because I wanted a close fit with minimal ease and my shoulders are more narrow than a size 12. That usually works for me, but the top was actually a little tight, so I had to let out my side seams about 1/2 inch each. Then the sleeves were too tight around my biceps, so I had to let those out too about 1/2 inch. The sleeves also had too much ease in the caps and since I didn’t bother making a muslin, I did a quick fix and lifted the sleeve caps and trimmed them a little. This shortened my sleeve cap a little. It’s not the best way to remove ease, because it can make it harder to lift your arm. The sleeves aren’t perfect and there is a little bit too much fabric there, still. Luckily the sleeves are comfortable, even though I shortened those sleeve caps! I’ll have to fix that pattern piece if I sew this shirt again. And I think I will, because ready to wear button down shirts NEVER fit me.
Describe what you like most about this blouse:
I love the military vibe of all the design components together.
I also love the fit. Close fitting and not boxy , yet comfortable still.McCall's 6035
Describe your biggest challenge in creating this blouse:
Trying to fix the puckers in the sleeves because of the excess ease drafted into them. I also didn’t make the neatest of seam finishes on the inside. I’m not that excited about serged finishes inside my clothes anymore, as sometimes all that thread bugs my skin. So I just went back to sewing basics and zig zagged my seams on the inside.
I should have made a muslin first, but I was excited to just get sewing!7I like this detail on the sleeve. The seam is finished normally, then clipped and sewn on the right side.That way when you turn up the cuff, there are no raw edges showing. Come to think of it, a French seam might also work .flipflopsAnd this photo is for my girl Amy of Sews N Bows who asked what types of shoes I would rock this outfit in.  I loved her idea of the booties. but I must confess I’m all about flip flops most of the time!

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  1. Lis Mellon says

    Very talented! Great job! Were the buttons/buttonholes time-consuming?

    • says

      My Bernina 560 sewed these buttons in no time. And the button foot is amazing for sewing on buttons, too.

  2. says

    Omg, love the print, love the pattern, love the whole outfit actually! Real people clothes, yay! I’m wondering what shoes you wore with it…I’m all about the shoes lol. Maybe those distressed ankle boots your daughter stole/borrowed? I’ll go vote for Ya!

  3. Carrie says

    ADORABLE!!! LOVE love love this look. Makes you look very slim and fit, amazing fabric by the way. Good job.

  4. Justine says

    You’re AMAZING, Justine!!! And so quick to put this fitted blouse together in time for the contest. Good job!!! Nice fit–and with great details. Looks good on you.

  5. says

    Wow! I love the fabric, and I love the shirt pattern. I think you lose some of what is great about each when they are together though–it is a little hard to see some of the military details in all the pattern. I want so sew but don’t have time, so thank you for blogging. I live vicariously through you. You have a great eye for fashion!

    • says

      I agree. I was planning on making this in chambray but my dryer broke and I couldn’t pre shrink it in time to sew it for the contest deadline. I so have a solid version planned soon. But it’s so time consuming, I may not get to it for awhile.