Enlarging armholes, Liesl & Co Chai Tee

Chai Tee

Chai Tee version two with enlarged armholes, size XS in the D cup and shortened three inches.Chai Tee

Chai Tee
Chai Tee

Chai Tee version 2.

Recently, I bought the new release of the Liesl & Co’s  Chai Tee. It’s a knit tee with some style, and I was drawn to the cuffed sleeves, the yoke, and the fact that there are cup sizes included. I have a similar blue and white striped tee I bought at The Gap a few years ago that I’ve worn to death.

I’ve had great experiences with Liesl & Co and Lisette patterns so far, so I didn’t bother making a muslin. I had about four yards of this poly knit bought for a few bucks at a jobber downtown a few years ago, so if it didn’t fit well, it was no big deal. I cut a size XS with the D cup. I knew it would be a little small, but I wanted a top with less ease.

The first version shown below had extremely tight armholes. As in not wearable at all. I had Lily who is a true size XS try it on and she also found them extremely uncomfortable. Disappointing but not unfixable.Chai Tee

Here you can see the small armhole on my form…. I decided to make the pattern armholes two inches bigger. I would also make the sleeve bigger as well. Here is how I did it…..I cut a line through the armhole and opened it up an inch in both the front and the back. I then cut another line down by the bust and closed it an inch to account for the inch I added at the armhole. I considered adding length to the yoke, which would make the job easier, but then that would make my neckline too big.

The enlarged armhole is under the original one.

Since the sleeve would need to be made two inches longer to fit the new armholes as well, I placed the sleeve over an inch of the papers’ fold and traced it, adding two inches once it is open.

The enlarged sleeve is underneath.

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  1. Justine says

    This is amazing how you thought this through to enlarge these armholes and sleeves! Very creative adjustments, Justine!! I haven’t seen many tees with cup sizes included. I like this and the yoke on this tee. Nice choice of the the poly knit fabric too! (I love blue and white stripes 🙂 I think the tee looks really cute.