Easy Full Bust Adjustment For Princess Seams

In sewing I am always learning. That’s why I never get bored of it.

And the road to learning fitting is a long one. I notice more things and little details all the time. All I have to do is try something on I made five years ago, and realize all the little things that slipped by me back then.

Below is a method I used to add an FBA to my Little brownish black dress.

When sewing with a stretch knit, there is usually enough room to stretch width wise to fit a variety of busts. But most knits don’t stretch much lengthwise. Especially ponte knits. So while the stretch ponte knit I used for my dress may have been able to stretch across to fit my bigger than B bust, it would most likely have been too short in the length. I needed to add some room to fit over me in that direction.

Most dresses in shops are too short for me on top, and look like empire waists. I rarely find any that I like the fit of.

 I don’t want my hand made dresses to do that, too. So I have to do an FBA. But this one is easy to do.

So you don’t get confused by the photo below, the piece on the right is actually the side of the bodice, and the piece on the left is the center front.

FBA For Princess SeamsThe good thing is, altering a princess seamed bodice is a lot simpler than doing a normal FBA !

The pattern I used here, McCall’s 6754, was drafted for a B cup. Most patterns are drafted for B cups, excepting a few Indie designers, like Colette, who draft for a C/ D cup.

But how to do an FBA on a princess seam knit pattern?

Make two slash lines through the two bust notches on your side bodice and center bodice pieces.

Cut the center bodice piece all the way through.

Cut the side bodice piece only to the seam line. Not the cutting line.

Open up the cut lines 1/2 inch for each cup size over a B. Patch from behind.FBA For Princess SeamsBecause you slashed through the bust notches you also created a bit more room in the bust area as you can see on the side piece on the right, as well as adding the necessary length.


Now, this may probably also work on a woven top pattern, but,I haven’t tried it yet.  So don’t quote me on that.FBA For Princess Seams

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  1. says

    its amazing the many ways we can adjust for fit. It’s important not to get stuck in doing one technique, since the fabric is the one that determines which technique to use.

  2. says

    Wow, that looks easy! Thanks! I love this dress you made so much that I just ordered the pattern a couple days ago!