Ours was filled with lots of family, food and love and it was a special day. I have a lot to be thankful for, that’s for sure.
I finished my final versions of my T shirt and A line skirt yesterday and I would love to share the photos with you. I ironed out the issues.
But first,I have been emailing back and forth with Cal Patch, the author and she has some important information to share with us about pattern making today!
Below are her thoughts on pattern making the knit t- shirt pattern. She has some valuable information here that you won’t find in the book! I had some questions for her about the fit of my last t shirt and wondered about adding ease to knit fabric patterns. Here are her thoughts:
“I have a couple thoughts that might help the dropped-sleeve issue, which is a common problem, because of the stretch of knits in the crossgrain and the fact that the big hole (aka neck) allows the whole shirt to grow a lot across the shoulders. It can be good to draft the shoulder width a little on the narrow side; basically putting in some negative ease to compensate for the stretching. You might also want to sew twill tape, seam tape, or anything non-stretchy into the shoulder seams so they don’t stretch. Adding the neckband or FOE or some other finish that prevents the neckline from stretching too much would also help (I know it’s the muslin and I love unfinished and serged raw edges, i’m just noting that a band does help the stretching somewhat). also, from the picture it looks like perhaps your sleeve cap height is a little on the short side? or maybe it’s just foreshortening in the photo. Is it about 2/3 the height of the armhole?
As for the side seam shaping, yes, I usually tell students to add a couple of inches of ease to the waistline, especially if they have a big difference from hip to waist, because most shirts don’t curve in nearly that much and it can look weird if it’s too extreme. Adding a couple inches should be more flattering in the belly zone because the shirt will *skim* instead of cling…
The stretchier the knit, the smaller I would make the pattern (assuming you still want a close fit). it may not be necessary with a firm cotton/lycra jersey, but definitely in something like a rib or thermal, if the pattern isn’t reduced (negative ease), the shirt will seem too big.
Below are are some photos of my t shirt and skirt I made from the patterns I have made so far.
I added pockets to the skirt and used this beautiful fabric that was sent to me by the fabric designer Celina Mancurti. Her fabrics are hand printed and made with organic fabrics. I love them! Stay tuned for a little giveaway of some of her fabric on Saturday.
I fixed my armhole issues and the fit for the t shirt was good, but I do wish I had taken Cal’s advice and added a little ease to my pattern. I used red ribbing piece for the neckband , trying to match the red birds on my skirt.
This cute hand painted chevron skirt was made by Diya at The Hobby Harbor. What a beautiful job she did drafting for a perfect fit and she painted those chevron stripes too! Stop by her blog to see how she didi it!