Aaaah, those pesky grainlines!
Somehow they have a way of creeping up on you and biting you in the butt when you least expect them!The skirt above is no longer in existence. She has been ripped apart and is now in a new incarnation on my cutting table.
There she is in all her crooked limpness.
But I spent HOURS on this project so I’d like to discuss a few places where I went wrong, and show off some of the couture sewing techniques from my Couture sewing books, just for the heck of it.
First, I was stubborn. If you follow me on Instagram you may have noticed that I realized the grainline was crooked early on in the making of this skirt. But I thought I could get away with it and I soldiered on..
This is the story of the case of a couture experiment gone awry!First I draped the design…..Cut the yoke out…..Then I draped the pleated skirt panel … This was where I went wrong. Can you see how the fabric is off grain thanks to my arrows?
At this point I should have cut out new panels…. but NO!!!!
I though I could outsmart that pesky grainline and make it not noticeable. I thought I was smarter than my fabric and the rules wouldn’t apply to me. And I don’t know why I thought that.
The truth was, I was just too lazy to cut a new panel and I hate to unpick sooooo …. I kept going….I inserted a hand picked slot zipper…I made Hong Kong seams and trimmed the excess at the seam allowance to avoid a bulky hem line. Sewed a silk pleat stay by hand and a bias bound hem by hand as well…. My daughter thought the skirt looked better inside out, and now I think she’s totally right on that. It looks sort of cool with that burgundy strip and grey silk yoke.See my hand stitching? yeah, it could be a little neater….
Have you ever noticed how most sewing bloggers don’t show the INSIDES of their garments?
I’ll admit, I ALWAYS want to see them so I will be showing you the insides of mine in all their messiness from now on. Maybe it will inspire me to be more neat!
So here were the things that went wrong with my skirt
1. Crooked grainline. The first and worst culprit. Things don’t hang right and the garment will just look OFF no matter what you do.
2. Too limp of fabric for a pleated skirt. I could have backed or underlined the fabric and it would have worked. But the fabric by itself was too flimsy to hold the pleats crisply. And because it was off grain, the pleats didn’t fall right…
So now I have cut up this skirt and am creating a gathered miniskirt with a doubled band on the bottom. I’m backing the panels with silk organza and using hair canvas to stiffen the hem.
Stop by next week to see if I’m successful!
Have a fun weekend….