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I was hoping to have my shirt all sewn up and finished by today but I stumbled upon some major fitting issues…..
The first of which was the big gap in my armhole when I tried on my muslin. A gap in the armhole happens when your bust is larger and you need to add a dart to shape the garment to it. By the way, I loved that fabric I was using on my muslin but sadly I melted it with my iron. I only paid a dollar for it, but still, it was very pretty. It must have been rayon or something…
Back to the armhole gap. If you are bigger than a B cup this will probably happen to you to when you make your button down shirt. So how do we fix this problem since it isn’t addressed in Design It Yourself Clothes?
We have to add a dart.
But we don’t want a dart coming out of the armhole which would be quite unattractive in my opinion….
Today I am going to show you how to move the dart on your pattern. By using the dart manipulation and pivot technique I will move the dart from the armhole to the side seam, giving it a nice upward, flattering angle.
I had to pinch about an inch out of my armhole which made sense since I am a D cup. This is one reason why you want to make a muslin! You can’t really fix this problem without making a whole new pattern piece unless you want this weird looking armhole dart which screams,
YES I AM AN ALTERATION!
But did I use a muslin? Of course not, but I wish I had, so I could have saved this pretty fabric.
HOW TO MOVE A DART ON THE PATTERN.
PLEASE EXCUSE THE MISSPELLED WORDS ON MY PHOTOS. I WAS A LITTLE TIRED WHEN I EDITED THESE. : )
I also had some problems with my side seams flaring out too much so I cut them down. The shoulders also had an odd slope and I had to cut them down almost an inch at the side seam armhole area. Then I had to reshape the armholes after that. After all that work, the pattern is now very snug fitting! I hope it will fit me when I’m done.
This has been a HARD project!
But I like the collar!
If you have been drafting a pattern too, I’d love to hear if you have run into any of these same issues. Please leave a comment!
I will have my top next week and will add the linky party button so you can share your projects too!
You made it to the end of the post! Please stop by often for a variety of sewing projects, clothes making tips , and stylish handmade living. Feel free to email me at justine @ sewcountrychick.com if you have questions.