A Gallery Tunic in white eyelet gauze

Gallery Tunic by Justine

I’m getting into my spring sewing projects so I made this Gallery Tunic by Liesl & Co  I wanted to sew it in white. I had very thin eyelet cotton gauze in my stash. It’s going to be perfect for hot days, which are right around the corner. Still covered from the sun, but really cool to wear!

I think I’m becoming a ‘fan girl’ of Liesl & Co patterns. I am loving both the adult and the girls patterns as well as all the great resources on the website. I was always staunchly against becoming a fan girl of any patterns the past few years, and made a point of even sewing patterns bought only at Wal Mart for awhile just to show that you don’t need expensive Indie patterns to have a nice handmade wardrobe. And you don’t.

When I first started sewing my own clothes on a regular basis about seven years ago, I had a moment as a Colette fan, but quickly realized that the patterns were not working for me. So I stuck with my actual vintage patterns which seemed to fit my figure better, I know they got a lot of heat last year on Pattern review after ‘Ruegate’ and I hope the changes they have made recently will be good for them. I did have a lot of fun making those Oolong dresses and my Hazel made from a vintage tablecloth even if most of my other makes were pretty awful. Dart points ending above the bust anyone? I have to credit Colette and sites like The Sew Weekly , [remember that one?] for even getting me interested in sewing again. Back then in 2010, a lot of us were sewing vintage styles. Sew weekly and We Sew Retro were fun online communities to be involved with. I wonder whatever happened to Mina, the proprietress of Sew weekly? It was a thriving site and one day it just ended with no explanation.

Nowadays, it seems like the thing in sewing is to make Capsule Wardrobes and sensible everyday wear. I sort of miss those days of sewing up all the frosting! It used to be all frosting and no cake, and now seems to be going the opposite way. Just look at me here in a sensible white tunic!

Isabelle wants to know why everyone in the blogosphere wants to sew up “boring t shirts, button downs, and chinos” these days. She wants to know why someone would want to spend their time to sew a wardrobe that looks like it was bought at Land’s End. She does have a point! She misses my tablecloth dresses.

Gallery Tunic by Justine

I made a few changes to this, my first gallery tunic and after making it, I still didn’t like the fit of the armholes, so I made a narrow shoulder adjustment. I’ll sew that next version up soon. I have a black Liberty print that’s perfect. The pattern is very well written and it was much easier to sew it up than I thought it would be. It took about an hour to cut it out and prepare the fabric and about three hours to sew it. I cut a size 4 but ended up taking it in in the sides still more. I really liked how simple the directions made everything.Gallery Tunic by JustineGallery Tunic by JustineGallery Tunic by Justine

I’m glad I made a muslin because I needed a really big forward shoulder adjustment. I thought I had good posture until I saw I needed to add over an inch to my back bodice and subtract it from the front to have the shoulder line up correctly.  I guess those barre classes can’t erase years of stooping forward. We learn so many fun things about ourselves when we start learning how to fit!

Once I changed the pattern in the shoulders I also had to change my sleeve. I moved the cap over the same amount I moved the back bodice up. This made my sleeve cap go in the right place. It also made my sleeve much smaller in the front and much larger in the back. My sleeve cap is really weird looking now, but it worked.sleeve

Another change I made was to slim down the side seams. My muslin was too blousy for my taste. I like things more fitted. Even tunics. If it’s a big billowy thing I will never wear it.

I also shortened the bodice front and back two inches.

Here is list of the changes I have made on my first version shown here and also my next version which I found even more to tweak

  • 1 inch forward shoulder adjustment.
  • Changed sleeve cap to match shoulder adjustment
  • 1/2 inch narrow shoulder adjustment
  • 2 inches taken in at sides
  • 1 inch FBA.front

backYes, it was  lot of work and I made two muslins but hopefully my next version will be perfect. I can see myself sewing up this pattern in lots of fabric. It’s easy to sew and it’s also a classic core wardrobe piece. there we go again! Core wardrobe staple. Yawn!fabriccloseup

I’ve had this fabric for ages, maybe six years, and am glad to get it out of my stash! This was a good design for it.

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-McKenzie

Comments

  1. Sandy Osborne says

    Lovely!! You put in a lot of work to make things fit so nicely. I appreciate you showing us the photos of your pattern adjustments. I’ve done a few minor (simple) adjustments, but nothing as involved as your work. It’s great information — and gives us encouragement to try some of these things. Although, I have to say, sometimes I just want to sew — and not make a muslin and changes and more changes . . . . LOL

    • says

      Once you realize what your fit issue is it gets easier making the same adjustments time and time again. I usually have to always narrow shoulders do a forward adjustment and sometimes an FBA. the bottom is a lot easier!

  2. Shana says

    You work hard at your sewing and it shows!! I marvel at your fearlessness in trying ANY type of fabric!! It inspires me to be a little braver….I would love to see your stash, of course I would be horrified and delighted!!!! I just flat out enjoy seeing all that you sew, it takes a lot of time to take all those pictures but it’s everyone’s favorite part! Have a lovely day…

    • says

      Thanks Shawna. I’m actually doing well getting rid of stash. I’ll try to post a photo one of these days. I did buy some new fabric the other day then realized I already had something else at home that would have worked just as well.

  3. Carol Gardiner says

    Hi Justine, love the new blouse. So cute. And it fits you really well. Probably due to all that work with the muslins. The other day you asked me what kind of tape I use on my knit hems and on the neck of T-shirts. I use Knit Stay tape. You can use it for the front of cardigans as well. I tried using skinny pieces of heat and bond light, but even that was too heavy, and although the hems didn’t wave anymore, they were a little stiff. Keep sewing – I’m off to getting the granddaughter’s Easter dresses sewed up.

  4. says

    Such a lovely blouse! I want one just like it! The fit looks great! I’m into sewing basics because they can get worn daily and the fabrics can be easier to handle.

  5. Brenda Kimberlin says

    Ok, I finally feel legit because I just made this top as well! I used a gray shirting material but I have it laid out again and ready to cut in a purple voile-type material, similar in weight to what you used above. For me, this is probably the first thing I’ve made that doesn’t look homemade to me when I wear it – in fact, even my husband said, “Hey, that’s nice, did you buy that today?” For this next one, I’m going to take it in a bit more at the sides as well, since there’s quite a bit of ease in that area. The only other change I made was to leave out the pockets and I used a rolled hemmer foot — my all-time favorite sewing tool — to finish the hem. And I agree, working with this pattern – and a Jalie pattern that I learned about through your blog — is causing me to turn more and more toward indies when looking for patterns for myself. (Although I have had good luck with Vogue as well.)

  6. says

    I love your tunic Justine. This pattern has been on my to sew list for a couple of years. Now I got my body back I am starting to get a little more adventurous sewing for myself, so seeing your version definitely inspired me to finally give it a go! I am really enjoying making things I can wear anywhere, anyday.

  7. Amy says

    Love this tunic. I need to consider this pattern. You and I have many similar fitting issues and woven tops are going to be the death of me. And I agree, Big 4 patterns from the 90s and early 2000s are drafted and fit much better. And the Indies have something going on in the fit department too for the most part. I read somewhere that the Big 4 draft for a rectangle and the Indies are drafting for specific bodies, such as Patterns for Pirates drafts for an hourglass, some draft for a pear shape, etc. Burda seems to fit me well as I’m tall (5’10”) but lately much of the stuff I’ve tried from McCalls and Vogue seems like it hasn’t been tested.

Trackbacks

  1. […] I’m currently sewing up a bunch of Popover Sundresses for charity like I’ve done in the past. This darling berry themed one is very inspiring with those sweetest little jam jar pockets! You could use the pockets from either the Puppet Show Shorts or Jump Rope Dress to recreate the same look. Another adorable dress for spring would be this Fairy Tale Dress sewn by Sew Country Chick. Justine also recently sewed herself a Gallery Tunic, go check it out. […]